On a warm summer day in 2004, I fired up a rudimentary navigation program on my Nokia dumb phone and set the destination to Nurburg. A friend had told me of the “best track in the world” that was located there, and you could just show up and buy a ticket to drive it. Since I had never actually driven on a racetrack before, it seemed like a good place to start. Well, I was 24 after all.
The Green Hell
The fact that I’m writing about it now, nearly 22 years later, is evidence of the addiction which so far shows no signs of easing. Sure, there were times where I took multiple-year long breaks from visiting the Green Hell, but once that place gets under your skin it’s probably there for life. Sooner or later, the urge to go for a 20.8 kilometre lap always returns. We’re talking of the old Nurburgring, the one that was eventually deemed too dangerous for Formula One and where Niki Lauda suffered his terrible crash. While the old track will be 100 years old next year, they also built a much smaller modern GP track right next to it in 1984 and that’s where most races are held these days.

The legendary Nordschleife these days only has a single dedicated racing series on it, and is mostly used for car industry tests and regular driving enthusiasts.
I find it difficult to articulate what makes the place special, maybe it’s something in the air, but as soon as you get there you can feel that you’re in the Mecca of the automotive world. That’s not to say that the place hasn’t changed at all over the two decades that I’ve been making the pilgrimage there. Back in 2004 you could show up at 9 AM on a sunny Saturday morning and simply park in the small parking lot right at the entrance to the track. These days, you’re more likely to get stuck in traffic before you can even see the entrance.
First, there was Top Gear and Jeremy Clarkson who woke up car enthusiasts from all over the world (but mostly the UK) to the existence of the Nurburgring Nordschleife, these days the crowds are drawn in by various influencers. As one might imagine, the “old guard” and locals haven’t necessarily been thrilled by this evolution towards vast crowds of inexperienced and often young drivers descending on the place in vast numbers and occasionally creating a bit of disturbance, but the Nurburgring belongs to everyone and more people visiting means more money for the local economy which depends in no small part on this automotive tourism.













