Daniel Phippard, chef
at Yornik restaurant on Bolshaya Grunzinskaya, is one of those people. Heck, I struggle to properly cook cauliflower, but a 10 minute chat with Daniel had me dreaming of creating culinary delights. Me!
Though those plans were put on hold soon after when we were presented with several plates of deliciously interesting food which left me struggling to find room for more.
Chef Daniel is clearly a man who puts a lot of thought into his food, to the point he’ll wake up at night to make notes for future dishes. And even when he settles on a dish, it still tends to evolve into different shapes over time — he provided us with some photo evidence on his phone. This kind of dedication is quite refreshing, and especially admirable considering Moscow must be a pretty daunting place to be a chef in. Certainly when you are transplanted here all the way from London, England.
Local produce are difficult to source, and somewhat limited in range. Moscow’s remote location creates some unique challenges when it comes to getting top quality products to cook with, but Daniel clearly takes this as a challenge rather than a potential excuse. He had quite a few stories to tell about his kitchen improvisations, although he carefully avoids talking too long on the topic he can clearly spend days talking about. Possibly his wife has been an influence in that department.
Sitting on the new terrace in the open air, we were served some lovely fresh and light dishes appropriate for a warm summer’s day. First there was an Artichoke salad with black truffle and home made goat cheese. Admittedly artichokes are not a typical summer dish but it worked well. Next up was the chilled tiger prawn salad woth oyster in a refreshing wateremelnon jelly which is rather original.
The Pike-perch with sorrel, spinach and smoke was quite extraordinary both in taste and presentation. It came «smoked» quite literally under a glass dome filled with smoke which poured out as soon as it was lifted. But more important than the impressive visual effect, it gave the fish a uniquely «fresh» smoky taste. It works very very well.
The boneless loin of lamb which followed was faultless and far from heavy. Chef explained that it had been quite difficult to source good local lamb meat, but clearly the effort has not been for nothing.
Dessert was an extremely tasty mix of crumble, cherry sorbet, pine nuts, sponge and cherries and provided a fitting closing statement to a lovely summer dinner. The speed with chich the plates emptied themselves pleased the chef, which in turn pleased us because there’s nothing better than a Chef who cares. And with Daniel Phippard at Yornik, you’re in safe hands.
I think in Moscow almost everybody adores artichokes or goat cheese. Daniel dealt a double blow with his starter-hit: an Artichoke salad with black truffle, home made goat cheese and wateremelnon
Caprese from Daniel. Tomato salad with black olives, mozzarella ice-cream. Mozzarella ice-cream? You should try it!
Gourmet appetizer for: Chilled salad of tiger prawns, oyster, watermelon, kaffir lime, lemongrass
Ordering Pike/perch, pea & mint, sorrel, buttered spinach, smoke, don’t miss the presentation moment.
Even if you’re not a fan, please try Boneless loin of lamb, which is served with couscous, yogurt, apricot, almond and Morrocan spices.
Dessert: Chef likes ad knows how to play with mixing of different textures and products. Need evidence? – Cherry dessert with pinenut in cherry sorbet.
Gazpacho, Andalouse garnish, basil sorbet, tobiko
Okroshka, rabbit kielbasa, home-made kvass
Yo-borcht, beetroot, rye, sour-cream
Tomato salad (caprese), black olives, mozzarella ice-cream
Artichoke salad, home-made goats cheese, orange tea oil, Italian black truffle
Chilled salad of tiger prawns, oyster, watermelon, kaffir lime, lemongrass
Summer vegetable salad, black bread
Warm salad of chicken wings, mushrooms, nettles, peas, crispy yolk
Crab salad, radish, lime, chili, coconut
Tuna tartar, pomegranate, black sesame, pickled ginger
Foiegras terrine, bitter orange puree, beetroot, grapes, liquorice
Rabbit Scotch egg, pea puree, tempura onion
Squid risotto, prawn, calamari, halibut, sea bass, tarragon
Pike/perch, pea & mint, sorrel, buttered spinach, smoke
50˚ Salmon, miso caramel, compressed cucumber, seaweed, horseradish
Meagre, tomato fondue, confit peppers, Jerusalem artichoke, broad beans
Chilean sea bass, smoked artichokes, salsify, Iberico ham, malt
Halibut, aubergine, curry, mango, chickpeas, cucumber
Farm chicken breast, sweet corn, lentils, mushrooms, fricassee of leg, sherry sabayon
Loin of milk fed veal chop, tongue, sweetbreads, poached grapes, yogurt, cauliflower
Rabbit loin, lasagna, carrots, seeds & grains, wholegrain mustard ice-cream
Boneless loin of lamb, couscous, yogurt, apricot, almond, Morrocan spices
Yo-pelmeni (Russian dumpling), marinated cabbage, sour-cream
Buckwheat risotto, seasonal mushrooms, parmesan
Lemon / polenta cake, lemon curd, mascarpone, burnt meringue, lemon sorbet
Raspberries, cheesecake, raspberry sorbet
Dessert with passion fruit cream
Apple Martini, cinnamon doughnuts
Sea-buckthorn mille feuille, yogurt, mango
Cherry, pinenut, cherry sorbet, minute sponge
Flavors of Tiramisu
Compressed strawberries, basil crumb, balsamic syrup, sour-cream ice-cream
Chocolate & salt caramel
Yo-box. Selection of home-made confectionary
Details from Posta-Magazine:
69 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya str.
Tel.: +7 (495) 789 92 50